By Dereck Foster
Argentina has an imported cuisine rather than an original
one. Most Argentine cooking had origins elsewhere, with
Spain and Italy being the most dominant influences. We
also have a lot of South American food, which originated
in the Andean Highlands of Bolivia, Peru and Paraguay.
Only three dishes we eat in Buenos Aires were created
here. One is the Caramel Apple Pancake. I have searched
all over the world and not found this dessert anyplace
else. Another original is Revuelto Gramajo, eggs scrambled
with crisp potatoes, ham and chicken. The third one is
the Milanesa Napolitana; a breaded veal cutlet with a
slice of cheese and ham covered with tomato sauce and
put in the oven until the cheese melts. The owner created
it in the Napoli restaurant in Buenos Aires, by mistake.
Argentina is, of course, famous for its steaks and other
grilled meats. Our parrilla stems from the Incan barbacoa.
The Incas roasted their meat on green branches placed
above hot rocks or coals, though they had no trademark
on this. Roast meat is probably the first hot meal any
human had anywhere on earth. Argentine beef is lower
in fat and cholesterol and has a special flavor since
our cattle walk around and feed naturally on the range.
The cuisine category requiring the most explanation is
Porteño. This is a term that is becoming very
popular locally, though even a lot of porteños
don't know what it means. Basically, it means classic
European cuisine with a local touch. Of course what is
considered French or Italian here probably would mystify
a visiting Frenchman or Italian. This is not to say that
the food is bad, just different.
Although we are almost daily surrendering our privileges
to the pressures of commerce and profit, Argentine food
still retains a good deal of authenticity. By that I
mean that many foods, especially vegetables, are natural.
A tomato may not be as perfectly shaped and colored as
a hothouse, artificially forced sample, but it tastes
of tomato, which, to me, is far more important. However,
in the cities especially, pre-packaged, vitamin-added,
pre-cooked or frozen foods are becoming ever more prevalent
and - sad to say - popular.
Outside influences are also noted in eating styles. Fast
food is now an integrated part of city life and hamburgers
are challenging - and in some areas usurping - the reign
of our national (sacred) steak. Our daily diet is distinguished
by the overwhelming predominance of beef followed by
a strong dose of pasta and pizza. Only very recently,
thanks to the fact that Argentines have taken to traveling
abroad, have new types of cuisine begun to be known and
accepted.
Let's drink some wine
Argentina is the world's fourth largest wine producer
and also its fourth wine imbiber, in terms of wine per
person per annum. This, in itself, means little until
we understand that much of this wine is superior and
even world standard. Visitors arriving in Argentina for
the first time are usually surprised at what they find,
especially when they compare prices. Local wines are
up to half the price of what one has to pay for a comparable
French, Californian or Australian product.
Argentina cultivates more than 50 varieties of grape
suitable for making wine, including all the top traditional
European varieties and a few which are unknown, or of
little value, elsewhere in the world. Two of these can
be considered not only the most typical of Argentine
wines but also two highly regarded varietals much appreciated
abroad. In the white sector, the grape is the Torrontés,
of unknown but probably Spanish origin, which is an incredibly
over powering, fruity-flowery wine on the nose and an
incredibly dry, flavorsome wine in the mouth. An acquired
taste for some, but quite unlike any other wine. Its
nearest comparison would be a sort of mix of Muscat and
Tramminer.
In the red sector we have the world's only fine 100%
Malbec wine, a grape of French origin, which is being
phased out in the Bordeaux region and only maintains
some sort of presence in the Rhone Valley. Malbec, in
the opinion of foreign experts, is Argentina's standard-bearer
in the wine world, superior to its Cabernet Sauvignon.
Finding one's own personal favorite is, as we all know,
a subjective matter and involves, a good deal of tasting
and shopping around (a not altogether disagreeable pastime!).
© 2002-2006, OM
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