It is about an hour-and-a-quarter's drive from Melbourne
to the centre of the Yarra Valley. The most direct, if
least glamorous, route is straight out along the Maroondah
Highway. Yes, there can be a fair bit of traffic, and
yes, there are (reportedly, I haven't counted them) 72
traffic lights to wade through, but at least it's nearly
impossible to get lost.
Alternatively, you can leave the care in town and let
someone else do the driving. Contact Victoria Winery
Tours on (03) 9621 2089 or Yarra Valley Winery Tours
on (03) 5962 3870.
Plan to visit just four or five wineries (including one
for lunch) in a day. The fewer you do, the more time
you'll have at each, the more you'll get out of it, and
the more relaxed you'll feel.
The Yarra Valley's close proximity to Melbourne means
that accommodation isn't as crucial as in some of Australia's
other wine regions. Nevertheless, there are about 50
good places to stay scattered around the valley. These
will be particularly useful if the Yarra is the first
stop on a longer journey into country Victoria.
Many of the established places are small, comfortable
guesthouses, such as Lamon Farm to the north of the valley
at Kinglake, ph (03) 5786 1684, and BJ Vineyard near
Yarra Glen, ph (03) 9730 1915.
Quite a few have restaurants attached: Strathvea Guest
House and Restaurant just past Healesville, ph (03) 5962
4109; Yarra Burn Winery, Restaurant and B&B, past
Yarra Junction, ph (03) 5967 1428; Mount Rael Lodge in
the centre of the valley, ph (03) 5962 4107; and Adams
of North Riding at St Andrews to the west, ph (03) 9710
1461. And one - Yarra Glen Grand, ph (03) 9730 1230 -
is an impressive hotel fully restored in the style of
the 1890s.
The newest addition to this list is Chateau Yering, right
next to Yering Station winery near Yarra Glen. It used
to be the home of William Ryrie, the Yarra Valley's and
Victoria's first vigneron, and then of Paul de Castella.
A magnificent colonial homestead, it has been sensitively
restored and expanded. The café and fine-dining
restaurant are operated by manager Sonia Cooper and chef
Gary Cooper. Along with sommelier Stuart McDonald (ex-Stephanie's),
they imbue the project with an infectious enthusiasm.
From November, Chateau Yering will be offering luxurious
accommodation. Bookings, (03) 9739 0111.
For a full list of accommodation in the area, contact
Yarra Valley Regional Tourism Association on (03) 5962
2600.
Two centrally located winery restaurants are particularly
recommended. At De Bortoli, hearty Italian fare is offered
in an attractive Mediterranean-style setting. Down the
Maroondah highway a little, at Eyton on Yarra, chef Michael
Hoyle is using fabulous local produce - salmon, mushrooms,
venison, quail - as well as fruit from Eyton's own orchard,
to create mostly Mediterranean-style, but very Yarra
Valley, dishes.
These and the profusion of other winery restaurants in
the area - Fergussons, Kellybrook, Lovey's, McWilliams
Lilydale and Yarra Valley Hills - are also popular for
functions such as weddings and conferences. Book well
ahead at all of these places, especially on weekends.
De Bortoli Winery, Pinnancle Lane, Dixons Creek, (03)
5965 2271. Eyton on Yarra, cnr Maroondah Hwy and Hill
Rd, Coldstream, (03) 5962 2119.
Partly as a result of the growing number of restaurants,
there is a burgeoning food-producing culture in the valley.
The most accessible example of this is the Yarra Valley
Dairy, tucked away off the back road that runs between
St Huberts and Yering Station. Here, you can not only
taste the magic that cheesemaker Loris Giorlando weaves
with milk, but also sip a range of Yarra wines by the
glass and choose from a selection of deli produce. Be
warned: it is seriously easy to stay here far longer
than you expected, so allow reasonable time. Yarra Valley
Dairy, McMeikans Rd, Yering. (03) 9739 0023.
Pencil the first weekend of March into your diary and
start the weight-loss exercises now. These two days are
taken up by the Yarra Valley's annual wine festival,
Grape Grazing, an excellent opportunity to laze around
in the sun with a glass of wine in one hand and a plate
of food in the other. You then drive down the road to
another winery and do it all again. The festival attracts
around 30,000 people and always has a bustling and carnival-like
atmosphere. For more information, ph (03) 9761 8474.
About a month later, Domaine Chandon hosts the Musica
Viva Festival, an annual Anzac Day weekend-long event
that combines chamber music with food and wine. Enquiries,
(03) 9826 9731.
In May, the Yarra Glen racetrack becomes an open-air
festival venue for the Yarra Valley Expo, an event featuring
local wine, food, music, and farm displays. Enquiries,
(03) 9730 1722.
If you get fed up with wine and wineries (God forbid!),
head out of Healesville on Badger Creek Road to the wildlife
wonder of Healesville Sanctuary or, directly opposite,
Galeena Beek Living Cultural Center. If these two fabulous
places can't take your mind off wine for a while, nowhere
can. Contact the Sanctuary on (03) 5962 4022 and Galeena
Beek on (03) 5962 1119.
For more information on the Valley, contact the Yarra
Valley Regional Tourism Association at Healesville on
(03) 5962 2600. They will be happy to send you one or
all of the three relevant brochures currently on offer:
the Yarra Valley Wineries Guide, the Yarra Valley Accommodation
Guide, or the comprehensive Yarra Valley Tourist Map
and Locality Guide.
Coldstream Hills Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Class Yarra
combination of finesse and power.
De Bortoli Chardonnay Very fine and stylish wine.
Diamond Valley Pinot Noir Either white-label estate or
black-label close-planted: both are great, supple wines.
Domaine Chandon Brut Rosé Possibly the best all-round
food fizz.
Eyton on Yarra Sauvignon Blanc Crisp and refreshing white.
Mount Mary Cabernets One of the country's most elegant
cabernets. Great cellaring prospect.
Oakridge Reserve Cabernet Big, dense and long-lived.
Seville Estate Shiraz Peppery, intense wine.
Shantell Semillon Green-edged, and bursting with citrus
fruit.
St Huberts Cabernet Sauvignon Sturdy, blackcurranty red.
Tarrawarra Chardonnay Classy, complex and subtle.
Wantirna Estate Chardonnay Wonderfully characterful chardonnay.
Yarra Yarra Cabernet Obscure but worth searching for:
full and powerful.
Yarrabank Vintage Brut Slightly drier and more delicate
than many Aussie bubblies.
Yarra Burn Sauvignon Semillon Wonderfully grassy and
lively.
Yarra Edge Cabernet Intense and classy.
Yarra Ridge Pinot Noir Both the standard and the reserve
are very good, indeed.
Yarra Valley Hills Pinot Noir Big, powerful pinot.
Yarra Yering Dry Red No 2 Immensely concentrated but
elegant shiraz.
Yeringberg Cabernet Long-lived and intensely elegant.
© 2002-2006, Australian
Gourmet Traveller Wine
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