Cabernet - that magic word is one of the first that
wine neophytes learn to pronounce. It immediately conjures
up those hedonistic aromas of blackcurrants, cedar, truffles
and plums and for most of the world it points to the
great wines of the Médoc and Graves, where it
representes 52 percent of grapes planted.
One of the keys to Cabernet's success in Bordeaux is
that it has always been prized for its resistance. Many
etymologists believe that Cabernet relates to the Biturica
grape that the Roman poet Pliny recorded in the year
71 A.D. as being planted in Bordeaux because of its hardiness.
It is certain that Cabernet's first sighting in more
recent history was in the 18th century when Baron de
Brane, owner of Château Mouton, pulled up many
of his white grapes and replaced them with the black
variety, Vidure (from the words Vigne Dure or hardy vine).
Today Cabernet is still sometimes referred to as Vidure
in the Graves. Yet Cabernet's true recognition as the
great grape variety of Bordeaux only came towards the
end of the 19th century when, after the ravages of phylloxera
and oidium, it was widely planted.
Cabernet Sauvignon is a brash, vigorous vine that grows
easily in a variety of different soils all over the world.
It survives cold winters and buds late. However it does
need dry, well-drained soils and lots of sunshine to
ripen properly. This explains why the gravel peninsula
of the Médoc and Graves is its perfect environment.
On the Right Bank, the more temperate climate and the
damp clay soils have not been so favorable to Cabernet.
The key to producing good quality Cabernet is to control
its growth. It grows extremely easily, producing lots
of leaves and shoots, and therefore needs to be pruned
quite severely and hedged during the summer months. Cabernet
produces small, round berries that are thick skinned
and blue tinged. This can be crucial at the end of the
growing season when rain can risk piercing and rotting
the grapes and diluting the juice. Its thick skin also
means the variety is not attacked by insects. In the
past, the disadvantage of Cabernet Sauvignon was its
relatively low yields. Yet today, in our search for quality,
this characteristic has become more of a virtue.
Cabernet's berries contain a very high ratio of pip to
pulp (almost one to 12), which can make the wine harsh
and tannic if it is not tempered by other grape varieties.
In California, where it is chiefly produced as a single
varietal wine, one wine writer once described it this
way: "Cabernet Sauvignon is a wine for people who
like to sleep on the ground, play rugby, climb mountains,
and eat Brussels sprouts." (Pride of the Wineries,
California guide book).
Today in California, Cabernet Sauvignon is increasingly
being produced as part of a "Bordeaux blend" or "Meritage" wine.
In the cool maritime climate of Bordeaux, the lush acidity
and soft fruitiness of Merlot or Cabernet Franc fleshes
out the sometimes hard structure and austere tannins
of Cabernet. In the various appellations of the Médoc
the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon varies according
to the changing nature of the soils. In Margaux, which
has a high proportion of gravel, one finds a higher percentage
of Cabernet in the blend. To the north, in St. Estèphe,
the soil has more clay content; one therefore finds more
Merlot and Cabernet Franc grown here. Throughout the
New World, Cabernet is successfully blended with a wide
variety of grapes including Syrah, Zinfandel, Sangiovese
and Merlot to soften it.
A word should be said here about Cabernet Franc. In spite
of its name, it bears little relation to Cabernet Sauvignon.
In hot years, Cabernet Franc comes into its own in Bordeaux,
bringing wonderful spicy, minty aromas and fresh acidity
to the blend. At times, however, it takes a great effort
to ripen the grape sufficiently. It is much more at home
on the clay limestone soils of the Right Bank of Bordeaux
than in the Médoc, and it plays its starring role
in the wine world at Château Cheval Blanc in Saint
Emilion where it makes up an important 65 percent of
the blend.
Cabernet Sauvignon is usually harvested during the month
of October. Most winemakers juggle between waiting for
optimum ripeness in their grapes while gambling with
the vagaries of the autumn climate. When the gamble pays
off, this can make the difference between an average
and a great vintage.
During vinification, Cabernet grapes release a high level
of phenolics that provide a rich palate of aromas in
the resulting wine. To encourage these aromas and to
make the wine softer, Cabernet is often fermented quite
fast with frequent pumping over and quite high temperatures.
A host of concentration techniques are increasingly being
employed in the top estates of Bordeaux to accentuate
the rich fruitiness of Cabernet.
An important quality of Cabernet is its affinity with
oak. The tough fruit tannins of the grape are gradually
leached by wood ageing, especially if the wine is stored
for a year or so in small new barrels made from tightly
grained French oak. One of the great joys of Cabernet
Sauvignon in Bordeaux is its ageability; it takes time
and patience for a wine to evolve from a young, tannic
wine into the hallowed great clarets of legend. It is
certainly due to the classic vintages of Bordeaux that
the grape has such a lofty reputation today. It is the
most long-lived of all wines and, as it develops over
the years, unfolds into a delicious palate of aromas
and flavors that will continue to fascinate and tantalize.
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