 By Allyson Mace
Burgundy, a word that flows from my lips with such happiness,
is home to some of my favorite wines. My last article
focused on the Pinot Noir grape and its subtle, yet fascinating,
history. With the summer months upon us I will focus
on the Pinots' Northern sister grape, the Chardonnay.
She raises her head 90 miles southeast of Paris in the
Chablis region of France. Now hold on, I can see all
those eyebrows raising along with her. No, this is not
the box wine you buy at the grocery store or order at
Pasta House.
The Chablis region is famous for its dry white wines
from the Chardonnay grape. I have seen people turn their
noses up to this maligned wine over the years and I feel
I should set the record straight. This region has its
share of problems already. Grown in a moderately high
altitude, subjected to piercing winds from every direction
and the occasional frost in May, Chablis still continues
to impress even the lesser educated wine enthusiasts.
The secret of Chablis lies deep in the soil. Prehistoric
fossilized oyster shells and harsh gravely ground create
seemingly harsh conditions for growth, yet this blending
of limestone, minerals and shells contribute to Chablis'
uniqueness. Displays of floral bouquet and steely or
flinty crisp flavors add to the versatility and distinctive
beauty of this wine.
As with most of the wine regions in France, Chablis is
regulated by the "Appelation Controlee" system
whose rules maintain high quality control. Covering approximately
10,000 acres, Chablis is ranked according to four classifications:
grand cru Chablis (only seven vineyards), premier cru
Chablis (40 vineyards), Chablis (from the valley hillsides),
and the rest Petit Chablis (from the plateaus).
Wines from exceptional vintages have the ability to age
quite nicely. The high-end wines can put a dent in your
pocket, but the good news is that there are lots of Chablis
wines that are moderately priced and still fantastic.
You can find them in any wine shop which has a good selection
of French wines for about $15-$30 a bottle. I was pleased
to learn that the Wine Spectator chose a specific Chablis--
Domaine Laroche, les Clos 1996-- as their first ever
white wine of the year. The Laroche family has been making
traditional Chablis for over eleven centuries. This bottle
scored a 99 and runs about $85+ a bottle and will be
at its peak in about eight to ten years. So much for
the Americanized Chablis we have come to ridicule.
So, we have learned that Chablis doesn't come from California
in jugs, it's not a grape, it's a region, and it's a
wonderfully versatile wine with foods such as salads,
chicken, fish, and cheese. Chablis will challenge the
palate of even the most discriminating of winos, and
it is one of the only wines to truly display its origin:
France, the true source of Chablis.
Cheers for now.
Allyson Mace,
a certifiable wine freak, has been a fixture on the St.
Louis restaurant scene for years.
Article © 2002-2006, Sauce
Magazine. All rights reserved.
|
