As a seafood haven, Venice exalts risotto nero (blackened
with cuttlefish ink), scampi (prawns) and spider crabs
called granseole, or moleche when males shed their shells
in spring and fall. Venetians have their own lexicon
for creatures from the lagoon: cannolicchi or cape longhe
(razor-shell clams), peoci (mussels), garusoli (spiky
murex sea snails), cape sante and the smaller canestrelli
(scallops), folpetti (curled octopus), schile (tiny shrimp)
and sardele (sardines). But Venetians also dine on the
earthly likes of risi e bisi (rice and peas), fegato
alla veneziana (calf''s liver and onions) and Carpaccio.
That raw beef dish originated in Venice, as did the rampantly
fashionable dessert called tiramisù.
Cured pork products include variations on salami called
soppressata, as well as cotechino and other types of
sausage. The prosciutto from the Berici and Euganei hills
in the southern Veneto rates a DOP. Protected cheeses
take in Asiago, from Alpine meadows, and Monte Veronese,
from the Lessini hills north of Verona, as well as Grana
Padano, Montasio, Provolone Valpadano and Taleggio, shared
with other regions.
Rice has always found greater favor among Venetians than
pasta. The compact Vialone Nano from Verona''s lowlands
rates an IGP. It excels for risotto, or risoto, usually
made by sautéeing the rice and base ingredients
then simmering them in broth without stirring. Rice dishes,
often substantial, include an endless variety of meat,
fish, game, vegetables, mushrooms, herbs and odd combinations
such as riso con i bruscàndoli (wild hop shoots)
and risi in cavroman (mutton spiced with cinnamon).
Special handmade pastas are the spaghetti-like bigoli,
the ravioli-like cassunziei and the tagliatelle-like
paparele. Noodles of all types go with beans in pasta
e fagioli (fasioi in dialect) the prime example of a
range of soups made with rice, meat, fish and vegetables.
The red beans of Lamon in the valleys around Belluno
have IGP status.
The versatile radicchio rosso is used for salads, cooked
in risotto and soups or grilled with oil and lemon as
a separate dish. IGP status has been reserved for Radicchio
Rosso di Treviso and Radicchio Variegato di Castelfranco.
Also prized are tender artichokes and the white asparagus
of Bassano del Grappa, eaten with eggs beaten with olive
oil and vinegar. The olive oil from the shores of Lake
Garda and Verona''s hills rate the DOP Garda.
Polenta can be a primo, though it''s more often part
of the main course, as a mush or grilled with meat dishes
such as pastissada, stew made with beef or with horsemeat
as pastissada de caval in Verona. There pearà,
a sauce of beef marrow, grated bread and pepper is served
with the ubiquitous bollito misto. Polenta accompanies
duck, goose, guinea fowl, turkey (sometimes cooked with
pomegranate) and game, such as wood pigeon, thrush, duck,
dressed with peverade (sauce of chicken livers, salame,
anchovies, oil, garlic, vinegar). Polenta also goes with
carpione (salmon trout found only in Lake Garda), with
stewed bisati (eels from the river deltas) or with dried
cod called baccalà (but really stoccafisso),
renowned from Vicenza.
The region''s pastries and desserts include baicoli (sugar
biscuits), zaleti (cornmeal-raisin cookies), frìtole
(fritters, with candied fruit and nuts for Carnival)
and crema fritta (fried cream custard). Popular beyond
the region are Verona''s golden pandoro Christmas cake,
the crumbly torta sabbiosa and fregolotta (with almonds)
plus, of course, tiramisù.
Verona is Italy''s first province for DOC wines, led
by white Soave and red Bardolino and Valpolicella (whose
opulent Amarone version ages splendidly). Vineyards elsewhere
proliferate in Merlot and Cabernet, often drunk young,
and white Pinots and Chardonnay. Bubbly white Prosecco
is preferred by Venetians for frequent sipping of the
little glassfuls they call ombre.
Explore Italian Cuisine:
|
