 Situated on the extreme South of Portugal, this part
of the territory was the last to be conquered from the
Moors by the Portuguese king in 1292. Traces of the Moorish
presence are still seen in its unique architecture -
terraces, chimneys and whitewashed houses.
However, the distance that was difficult to cover back
in the 13th century is no longer an obstacle thanks to
the modern Lisbon-Albufeira-Castro Marim road (IP1) or
Faro international airport. So why not visit this charming
region, with its idyllic temperatures which are ideal
for playing golf and other sports.
In the northern part of the Algarve, the hills of Espinhação
de Cão, Monchiqe and Caldeirão shelter
the coast from strong winds. This brightly-coloured region,
with its fig trees, orange groves and almond-trees in
blossom, is also the most verdant and fertile. The southern
coastline consists of a long stretch of fabulous sandy
beaches, broken up by extraordinary rugged cliffs and
fantastic grottoes.
Apart from the wealth of available water sports facilities
(the marinas of Vilamoura and Lagos deserves special
mention, amongst the various ports and harbours), there
are other alternatives, such as tennis courts, famous
golf`courses, luxury hotels or quaint holiday resorts
and an exciting nightlife.
The pleasures of Algarvean cuisine
A land of fishermen lapped by the waters of the Atlantic
Ocean, the Algarve is a paradise for everyone who enjoys
fish and sea food. Because every day, as morning breaks,
the fishing boats return to harbour laden with the night's
catch. And also because the people of the Algarve have
centuries of experience in cooking the fruits harvested
front the sea.
The simplest method - grilling the fish, be it sardine,
sea bream or mullet, over the slow heat of glowing charcoals
- is also one of the most delicious. For more complex
flavour combinations nothing beats the old fishermen's
recipes, which range from wholesome soups made with razor
clam, prawn and fish of all kinds to conger, clam and
octopus risottos, and from cuttlefish and baby squid
in their ink to whelk and bean stew, fish stew and seafood
in a, thick bread soup known as "açorda".
The cuisine of the interior is redolent of fertile fields
and vegetable plots, of flocks grazed on hills fragrant
with wild herbs. From filed chicken to braised leg of
lamb, accompanied by chick peas or cabbage, to the simple
but tasty carrot preserve that is served with fish and
meat, or snails cooked with herbs, all the local dishes
are rich in the flavours of the countryside.
But the piece de resistance of Algarvean cuisine is the
delicious dish of clams cooked in a cataplana casually
with tomatoes, onions, cream and pieces of bacon or sausage.
The secret is in the cataplana, a broad copper vessel
with a hinged lid that is Moorish in origin. The lid
is closed while the ingredients simmer together and the
flavours develop. And when it is opened - what a treat!
The Algarve has some tempting cakes and pastries too.
Made with the almonds, figs and oranges that are grown
throughout the area and plenty of eggs and sugar, they
bear such exotic names as "Dom Rodrigos", "morgados" and "morgadinhos°.
Stuffed figs, fig cake and figs with almonds and chocolate
are among the many traditional desserts.
The grapes of the Algarve get plenty of sunshine and
yield heady wines with lots of fruit that go well with
the region's cuisine. And to round off a meal, the arbutus
brandy known as "medronho" and other traditional
liqueurs made with fruit and honey are well worth a try.
Tasty local cooking
Top of the list of gastronomic delights associated
with Portimão is tasty, grilled sardine, served on
a slice of home-made bread, a simple but delicious combination
to be had in any of the restaurants along the quayside.
But there is more than grilled sardine to Portimão's
culinary repertoire. Local entrees include chard and
purslane soups, white heart soup with sweet potato, bread
and tomato soup a favourite of the local fishermen and "arjamolho" a
refreshing soup that is ideal on hot days.
There is a plentiful choice of fish and seafood too.
Cataplana which takes its name from the traditional hinged
copper vessels in which it ìs cooked, fish stew,
Portimão-style clams and bean and whelk stew made
with large whelks, red beans and green peppers and seasoned
will, parsley and bay leaf. The maritime side of the
menu also includes razor clam risotto, "carapau" (a
fish not unlike mackerel) in a vinegar sauce, and fried
baby cuttlefish, while rural flavours and produce take
the fore in broad beans with fried fish, corn broth with
sausages or sea food and Portimão-style peas.
Nor is there any shortage of cakes and desserts, many
of which rely on a judicious combination of figs, almond,
sugar and eggs: "morgados", "Dorn Rodrigos", "bolas
de ovo" and "figos cheios".
The Penina region of Portimão municipality even
produces its own wines, whites and reds redolent of the
hot summer sun.
Places of Interest
Faro - The capital of the district, with a medieval
wall and a large number of monuments: Cathedral (Roman-Gothic
origin), Nossa Senhora da Assuncão Convent (Renaissance),
São Francisco Church (16-18th centuries). Museums
to visit: Infante Dom Henrique, Regional Ethnographic,
Ramalho Ortigão and Antoniano (next to the Santo
António do Alto Hermitage). Also worthwhile visiting
are the beautiful churches of São Pedro da Misericórdia
and Nossa Senhora do Carmo. Roman ruins of Milreu in
the suburbs.
Lagos - Enclosed within 5th-century walls, with its Manueline
window, are the magnificent churches of São Sebastião
(Renaissance portais and 17th-18th century tiles), Santa
Maria of Misericórida (16th-19th centuries), Santo
António (Baroque) and the very old São
João Hermitage (8th-9th centuries). Other points
of interest: Regional Museum, Governors' Palace, Forte
do Pau da Bandeira and the Old Slave Market. Charming
marina.
Monchique - Amongst the beautiful houses on the slope
stand the mother-church (Manuelina), Misericórdia
Church (with a Baroque retable) and the Senhor do Pé da
Cruz Hermitage (17th century). Nearby look for the famous
thermal spas of Monchique and Fóia (902 m high),
overlooking the hills and the ocean.
Olhão - The square-shaped flat-roofed houses,
with their Moorish-style terraces, are this fishing town's
ex-libris. Behind the mother-church (17th century) you
will find the Nossa Senhora dos Aflitos Chapel.
Portimão - First the blue sea and its gently lapping
waves. Then fine, golden sands framed by cliffs and rocks.
The cosmopolitan atmosphere of an international toursim
destination. This is the Algarve of beach holidays in
the sun. Portimão and its municiplaity have more
to offer though. A rich heritage of historical monuments.
The eternal natural beauty of Ria de Alvor. The charm
of cultivated fields, of slopes covered with pine trees
and wild flowers. The allure of walking up into the hills
and looking down on the Algarve from a new perspective.
In this fishermen's town, visit the mother-church (14th
century, rebuilt in the 18th century), the Colégio
Church (17th century), and the Town Hall. In the suburbs,
the renowned Praia da Rocha (with its Santa Catarina
de Ribamar Fortress), and the Roman ruins of Abicada.
Popular crafts - Wicker and cane baskets, hats, mats
and baskets made of palm leaves and twisted "esparto" grasses,
lace and embroidery, copper utensils, domestic and decorative
earthenware: these are among the unassuming treasures
that the craftsmen and women of Portimão and its
municipality continue to make using traditional materials,
motifs and techniques.
Stained-glass windows and porcelain ornaments are evidence
of more craft recent trends and of an unfailing desire
to work by hand to make things of beauty.
Accommodation: Hotel Avenida Praia *** - Hotel Tropimar
** - Club Praia Mar (Selfcatering) - Concorde Apartment
(Selfcatering) - Quinta Monte Novo (Selfcatering)
Sagres - It was here that five centuries ago Prince Henry
set up a school of navigation, which played a crucial
role in the Portuguese Discoveries. Apart from the Nossa
Senhora da Graça Hermitage, you can visit the
magnificent Fortress (originally built in the 14th century,
and later altered) and the 15th-century Rosados-Ventos
(a 43 m-diameter compass rose). Nearby, on the extreme
southwestern tip of the European continent is Cabo de
São Vicente (Romans' Promontorium Sacrum), opening
on to a vast horizon of sea and sky.
Accommodation: Pousada do Infante
Silves - Stones of different times and cultures overlap
in this town: the castle, with its famous water cistern
and walls, is of Arab origin; the Gothic Cathedral (having
undergone several restoration works) was built on the
site of an ancient mosque; the 12th-century bridge was
built where formerly stood a Roman bridge. The Cross
of Portugal also deserves special mention (16th-century
religious sculpture), as well as the following examples
of Manueline motifs: the Nossa Senhora dos Mártires
Hermitage and the Misericórdia Church.
Tavira - With its inviting long beaches, typical roofs
and chimneys, this picturesque town offers a beautiful
view over the Gilão river and its Roman bridge.
Churches to visit: Santa Maria do Castelo (13th-18th
centuries), Misericórdia (Renaissance), Nossa
Senhora das Ondas (17th century), São José (with
Gothic and Manueline elements), São Paulo and
Carmo (17th-18th centuries). If you are browsing along
the Travessa de Dona Brites, you will see beautiful medieval
houses, with Gothic windows and portals. In the suburbs,
in the small village of Luz there is a Renaissance church,
which has been a pilgrimage place for many centuries.
Other places of interest
Albufeira, Alcoutim, Aljezur, Almancil (beautiful São
Lourenco Church, a Baroque masterpiece), Alte, Cacela,
Carvoeiro, Castro Marim, Estômbar, Lagoa, Loulé,
Moncarrapacho, Ponta da Piedade, Porches, São
Bartolomou de Messines, São Brás de Alportel
(Pousada), Vila do Bispo, Vilamoura and Vila Real de
Santo António.
Article © 2002-2006, Oporto,
Portugal
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