Wine Reviews & Recommendations

Perfect Pinot Noirs for
Romantic Wine Lovers

Pinot Noir, in many ways, could be called “the red wine of lovers”. It is aromatic and extremely appealing in aroma and flavor, and often has a suppleness of texture (sometimes called “velvetiness”) that reinforces the wine’s complex and generous character.

It must be stated though that Pinot Noir comes in many different styles: from light and crisp to full and rich. This month I recommend Pinot Noirs that reflect the range of its styles, from the lighter, more refreshing ones of France’s Burgundy region to the richer, riper ones from California.

I want to begin with a trio of fine Champagnes from the house of Taittinger. As you may be away, many Champagnes are made with red wine grapes, specifically Pinot Noir and/or Pinot Meunier.

As usual, within each group, I have listed the wines in approximate order of their weight and flavor intensity--proceeding from lighter to fuller.

Champagne Wine Recommendations

TAITTINGER

* PRELUDE, BRUT, $70-$75
* 2000 BRUT, $70-$75

The Prelude is complex in character and crisp; a fine Champagne, with a long finish, tasting of lemon peel, green apple, roasted nut, and honeysuckle. From Grand Cru vineyards. A blend of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay. The 2000 Brut is outstanding: round and richly flavored, with medium full body, creamy texture, layers of roasted nut, lemon peel, grapefruit, and honey aromas/flavors, and a crisp, long finish. 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay. Drink through 2010.

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TAITTINGER, 2002 COMTES DE CHAMPAGNE ROSE, BRUT, $220-$230

Light medium orange pink. Fragrant, fine aroma (rose petal, strawberry, cherry, walnut); medium bodied, crisp, richly flavored, and long on the palate, with a persistent, harmonious finish, tasting of plum, pineapple, roasted nut, honey, and strawberry). One of the best versions of this wine we've tasted. 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay. Drink through 2011.

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Burgundy Wine Recommendations

J. FAIVELEY, 2005 BOURGOGNE, $20-$22

A vibrant, full bodied, crisp, moderately intense wine, with good balance and length. It tastes of rose petal, raspberry, herbs, and rhubarb. Drink through 2009.

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LOUIS JADOT, 2005 BOURGOGNE, $19-$21

Quite fruity in character, full in body, and well balanced, with floral, berry-like aromas/flavors. Medium long finish. Excellent. Drink through 2009.

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JOSEPH DROUHIN

* 2005 VERO, BOURGOGNE, $19-$21
* 2005 CHOREY-LES-BEAUNE, $23-$25

These are very fine Pinot Noirs. The Vero is supple in texture, finely flavored (violet, red currant, plum, toast), with crisp acidity, and long on the finish, with light oakiness. The Chorey is finer and slightly richer in style, with floral and fruity character (violet, plum, red currant), and hints of pepper and new oak. Long finish. Both are excellent values. Drink through 2011.

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JOSEPH DROUHIN, 2005 GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN, $33-$35

A medium rich, crisp wine, with full body, fine character (raspberry, red currant, roasted nut, tobacco, spicy oak), and a very long finish. Great value. Drink through 2011.

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California Pinot Noir Wine Recommendations

DE LOACH, 2006 PINOT NOIR, CALIFORNIA, $12-$14

Youthful and distinct, this is a full bodied if lighter styled wine, that has grapey, spicy aromas/flavors, and medium length. Excellent value. 16,800 cases. Drink through 2008.

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CASTLE ROCK

* 2006 PINOT NOIR, MENDOCINO COUNTY, $14-$15
* 2006 PINOT NOIR, MONTEREY COUNTY, $14-$15

Castle Rock does it again. The Mendocino Pinot Noir is soft and full bodied, with youthful fruitiness (berries, plum), and floral, spicy overtones. Long finish. The Monterey bottling is a bit more complex and nuanced in character, with good balance, and a long finish, tasting of plum, toast, oak, and cherry. Drink through 2008.

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BAILEYANA, 2005 PINOT NOIR, FIREPEAK VINEYARD, EDNA VALLEY, $26-$28

Full bodied and ripely flavored, this is a medium rich Pinot Noir of excellent quality. It tastes of raspberry, cherry, vanilla, and spicy oak, and has floral overtones. Long finish. Fine value. 2,150 cases. Drink through 2008.

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ESTANCIA, 2005 PINOT NOIR, STONEWALL VINEYARD, SANTA LUCIA HIGHLANDS, $25-$27

A full bodied, supple Pinot Noir, with medium richness, good balance, and light oakiness on the finish. In character, it tastes of plum, strawberry, red currant, cherry, and pepper. Drink through 2008.

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GLORIA FERRER, 2005 PINOT NOIR, ESTATE, CARNEROS, $28-$30

Excellent: supple and complex in style, with full body, very good balance, and a long aftertaste, redolent of spicy oak, plum, baked cherry, clove, and cedar. Drink through 2008.

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FOLEY, 2005 PINOT NOIR, RANCHO SANTA ROSA, SANTA RITA HILLS, $40-$42

A supple, rich Pinot Noir, with complex character and good balance. It has good depth of fruit, light oakiness (toast, cedar, tobacco), and a long finish, which echoes raspberry, red currant, violet, cherry, and plum. 4,100 cases. Drink through 2009.

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GAINEY VINEYARD, 2005 PINOT NOIR, LIMITED SELECTION, SANTA RITA HILLS, $44-$46

Velvety in texture and richly flavored, this is an excellent, firmly textured Pinot, with a long, lightly oaky finish. It tastes of pomegranate, black cherry, blueberry, toast, and cedar. Unfiltered. 670 cases. Drink through 2009.

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PARAISO, 2005 PINOT NOIR, WEST TERRACE, SANTA LUCIA HIGHLANDS, $38-$40

Best Pinot Noir yet from this winery. Fleshy in texture, full bodied, complex in flavor, well balanced, and long on the finish, tasting of black cherry, toast, cedar, raspberry, and violet. Great value. 399 cases. Drink through 2009.

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-- RW

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