The holiday season calls for wine of higher caliber. Thus, this month we will focus on some truly outstanding wines that are somewhat pricier than my usual recommendations. For most of us, they are special occasion wines that help the occasion be much more festive. To get the most of the wine tasting recommendations, I suggest that we compare two wines from the same varietal at the same time. You might like to compare: • the Ramey Russian River Chardonnay with the Ritchie Vineyard, or the Carneros Chardonnay with the Hyde Vineyard version—in both pairs noting the extra depth, richness of flavor, and character of the single vineyard bottlings; • the Ramey Carneros Chardonnay with that from Vine Cliff, noting the fuller body and greater complexity of the latter; • the King Estate Pinot Noir with one of the Morgan bottlings, noting the relative delicacy and subtlety of the former, and the depth and richness of the latter; • the Davis Family and Dutton Estate Syrahs, both from the Russian River Valley, but in strikingly different styles; the former in a fuller, oakier style, and the latter in a slightly lighter, crisper, fruitier/spicier style. California Chardonnay Recommendations Ramey • 2004 CHARDONNAY, RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY, $38-$40 • 2004 CHARDONNAY, CARNEROS, $38-$40 • 2003 CHARDONNAY, RITCHIE VINEYARD, RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY, $55-$60 • 2003 CHARDONNAY, HUDSON VINEYARD, CARNEROS, $55-$60 • 2003 CHARDONNAY, HYDE VINEYARD, CARNEROS, $55-$60 Ramey features a wide range of excellent Chardonnay by each respective tier. The 2004 RRV possess noteworthy structure and balance. It is firm, crisp and long on the palate. Taste reminiscent of lemon peel, peach, toast, roasted nut, and lime. 2,870 cases. The Carneros bottling is fleshier with tastes of baked pear, lemon, toast and vanilla. Great depth and balance. 1,800 cases. The Ritchie Chardonnay is fuller and more richly flavored. It features a subtle, complex character. Tasting of roasted nut, apple, lemon peel and pineapple. 600 cases. The Hudson Chardonnay is round and persistent in the palate. It is full-bodied with flavors of roasted nut, apple, honey, lime and toast. 830 cases. Exceptionally good is the Hyde Chardonnay. It is fleshy and rich with flavors of pear, apple, toast, roasted nut, lemon peel, crème brulee and vanilla. 1,800 cases. Drink through 2008. Vine Cliff, 2004 CHARDONNAY, LOS CARNEROS $38-$40 Excellent Chardonnay. Supple and velvety in texture. Full-bodied and richly flavored. Bursting with flavors of crème caramel, roasted nut, green apple, lemon peel and pink grapefruit. 1,800 cases. Drink through 2008. Pinot Noir Wine Recommendations Fort Ross • 2002 PINOT NOIR, FORT ROSS VINEYARD, SONOMA COAST, $38-$40 • 2002 PINOT NOIR, FORT ROSS VINEYARD, RESERVE, SONOMA COAST, $50-$55 Fort Ross features uniquely styled wines from coastal vineyards. The standard Pinot Noir is fragrant with distinctive flavors of blueberry, cherry, red currant, toast, ginger and vanilla. 288 cases. The Reserve is delicate yet complex. It is crisp with long, persistent finish. Tasting of cherry, blueberry, tobacco, toast and vanilla. 328 cases. Both are unfined & unfiltered Drink through 2009 King Estate, 2003 PINOT NOIR, DOMAINE, OREGON $48-$50 Elegant and stylish. This Pinot Noir is supple with medium richness and great balance. It also possesses flavors of blueberry, cherry, violet, toast and vanilla. 400 cases. Drink through 2008. Lost Canyon, 2004 PINOT NOIR, MORELLI LANE VINEYARD RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY $40-$43 Ripe and richly flavored. Tasting of plum, vanilla, kola nut, toast and earthy aromas. Full-bodied. Long aftertaste. 410 cases. Drink through 2008. Morgan – Santa Lucia Highlands * 2004 PINOT NOIR, GARYS' VINEYARD, $43-$45 * 2004 PINOT NOIR, ROSELLA'S VINEYARD, $45-$49 * 2004 PINOT NOIR, DOUBLE L VINEYARD, $45-$49 Morgan continues to excel in its single vineyard Pinot. Gary’s bottling is fruit-forward and complex in character. Tasting of plum, clove, nutmeg, roasted nut, vanilla nd baked cherry. 300 cases. The Rosella bottling is full-bodied and rich. Wine tasting of blueberry, cherry, clove, toast and cedar flavors. 400 cases. The Double L is excellent in texture and structure. It is full-bodied and well-balanced. Tastes reminiscent of blueberry, strawberry, toast, spicy oak and roasted nut. 650 cases. Drink through 2008. ZD Wines, 2004 PINOT NOIR RESERVE, CARNEROS $60-$65 Enticing and supple. Wine bursting with flavors of clove, plum, blueberry, toast, tobacco and oak. Well balanced with persistent aftertaste. 750 cases. Drink through 2008. California Syrah Wine Recommendations Davis Family Vineyard, 2004 SYRAH, GUYZER BLOCK RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY $40-$42 Complex in style and structure. This Syrah is fleshy, rich and powerful. It tastes of kola nut, cedar, clove, toast and boysenberry. Drink through 2007. Dutton Estate, 2003 SYRAH, GAIL ANN'S VINEYARD DUTTON RANCH, RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY $35-$38 Fleshy and moderately complex in flavor. A Syrah with northern Rhone character and structure. Taste reminiscent of black cherry, black currant, aniseed, toast, pepper and spicy oak. 187 cases. Drink through 2007