German wines, like its people, pose as a mystery to many of us. German wineries and names are utterly long and very confusing. Most too of the recognized German wines are of the white variety which are often off-dry to sweet. Nonetheless, excellent wines made by good vineyards, good producers and good vintages are created using Riesling grapes. 2003 German vintages are considered the warmest on the record. The Rieslings of this year are fleshy, luscious and ripe. They are appealing; definitely a pleasure to drink. German Riesling Reviews BARON ZU KNYPHAUSEN, 2003 KIEDRICHER SANDGRUB SPATLESE, $22-$24 Elegant, fruity and aromatic. Tasting of ripe peach, fresh greens, citrus and apple. Well-balanced sweetness and acidity. Medium-bodied and long on the palate. Drink through 2008. REICHSGRAF VON KESSELSTATT * 2003 PIESPORTER GOLDTROPFCHEN KABINETT, $21-$23 * 2003 JOSEPHSHOFER SPATLESE, $29-$31 * 2003 SCHARZHOFBERGER SPATLESE, $28-$30 Von Kesselstatt faired successfully well in 2003. Elegant, a bit dry and medium-light bodied is the Piesporter Kabinett. Taste reminiscent of peach, apple and cherimoya. The Josephshofer Spatlese is outstanding and wonderful. It is bursting with ripe fruit flavors of apple, citrus and honeysuckle. Medium-length finish. The Scharzhofberger is highly exceptional. It features intense aromas and taste of apple, honeysuckle and melon. Medium bodied and crisp on the palate. Drink through 2009. SAINT M, 2003 PFALZ RIESLING Q.b.A., $11-13 Fresh and fruit-drive. Tasting of peach, guava, apricot, grapefruit, passion fruit and cherimoya. Medium long finish. Ripe and intense characters. Delicious. Bottled by Villa Wolf. 15,000 cases. Drink through 2006. SCHLOSS VOLLRADS * 2003 QbA, $15-$17 * 2003 KABINETT TROCKEN, $17-$19 One of the vineyards celebrated for their noteworthy wines. Rich and supple is the Qba. It is fruit-forward and medium bodied. Features great balance and crisp finish. The Qba is bursting with tastes of pear, quince, peach and floral notes. Kabinett is round, earthy, utterly tempting. It features tastes of honeysuckle, peach and passion fruit. Drink through 2007.