January 2005 California Pinot Noirs and Other Great Reds

New year again and new vintages again hitting the market. From the USA, specifically California, the availability of lighter or earlier maturing wines from the 2003 vintage (white and red) is broadly apparent (even a few 2004s are here). Meanwhile, we are nearly at the tail end of the richer 2002 whites. But the richer reds from the 2002 vintage are still plentiful. While we are in the seventh or eighth inning for the fullest 2002 Zinfandels, Syrahs, and Pinot Noirs, we are only in the fourth or fifth inning for top Cabernets, Cabernet blends, and Merlots. By this fall, nearly all the 2002 reds will have appeared. But make no mistake: 2002 is a very good vintage in California. The white wines are generously flavored; the reds a little fleshier and less tannic than usual, but quite delicious, particularly at wineries where a careful selection among lots was made. In this column, I’m offering up some favorite 2002 California wines, primarily red. Wishing all of you a happy and healthful 2005. California Chardonnay Review TESTAROSSA, 2002 CHARDONNAY, SLEEPY HOLLOW VINEYARD, SANTA LUCIA HIGHLANDS, $37-$39 A complex, full bodied, finely flavored Chardonnay, which is full bodied, crisp, and very long on the palate. In aroma/flavor, it tastes of apple, peach, vanilla, toast, roasted nut, and lemon peel. 235 cases. Drink through 2006. California Dolcetto Review PAVI, 2002 DOLCETTO, NAPA VALLEY, $14-$16 Delicious Dolcetto: very fruity in flavor (red currant, plum, cherry), supple in texture, and full bodied; a wine with light oak character, and a very long finish. Organically grown grapes. 600 cases. Drink through 2005. California Syrah Review HAHN ESTATES, 2002 SYRAH, CENTRAL COAST, $12-$13 Great value. This is a full bodied, fairly rich Syrah, with evident oakiness and a long finish. It tastes of toasted oak, tobacco, black cherry, and plum. 7% Petite Sirah. 7,800 cases. Drink through 2005. California Pinot Noir Reviews LONGORIA, 2002 PINOT NOIR, BIEN NACIDO VINEYARD, SANTA MARIA VALLEY, $36-$40 A full bodied, richly flavored Pinot Noir, which is fleshy, lightly oaked and long on the finish, tasting of cherry, clove, black peppercorn, vanilla, and oak. Fine quality. 200 cases. Drink through 2006. MERRY EDWARDS * 2002 PINOT NOIR, SONOMA COAST, $26-$29 * 2002 PINOT NOIR, OLIVET LANE, RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY, $52-$56 These are both excellent wines. The Sonoma Coast is a supple, somewhat fleshy wine that is moderately rich and lightly oaky on the palate, with a rugged finish. It tastes of tobacco, plum, cedar, and vanilla. 1,580 cases. The Olivet Lane bottling is full bodied and very ripely flavored; a Pinot Noir with a generous palate impression, and a long, lightly oaked finish. It tastes of cherry, plum, toast, oak, and vanilla. 660 cases. Drink both wines through 2006. MINER, 2002 PINOT NOIR, GARYS' VINEYARD, SANTA LUCIA HIGHLANDS, $52-$56 Very fruity in character, this is a full bodied, supple Pinot Noir, with medium richness, light oakiness, and a long finish. It tastes of strawberry, plum, vanilla, toast, cedar, and tobacco. 300 cases. Drink through 2006. PELLEGRINI, 2002 PINOT NOIR, OLIVET LANE VINEYARD, RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY, $28-$31 Round and full bodied, this is a generously flavored Pinot Noir, tasting of raspberry, plum, toast, and kola nut. 4,047 cases. Drink through 2006. PERBACCO CELLARS, 2002 PINOT NOIR, ARROYO GRANDE VALLEY, $24-$26 A softly textured, full bodied, ripely flavored wine of fine quality. It is rich, quite fruity (plum, cherry, berry), with toasty, smoky oak overtones. 207 cases. Drink through 2005. ROCHIOLI, 2002 PINOT NOIR, RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY, $42-$45 Best version of this wine in years: supple, ripely flavored, full bodied, lightly oaky, and long on the finish. It tastes of black cherry, plum, toast, and oak. 2,544 cases. Drink through 2006. California Zinfandel Reviews ROBERT HALL, 2002 ZINFANDEL, PASO ROBLES, $28-$30 Rich, full bodied, and relatively powerful in style; a Zin tasting of blackberry, cherry jam, black pepper, and oak. Long finish. 14.7% alcohol. 304 cases. Drink through 2006. SOBON ESTATE, 2002 ZINFANDEL, LUBENKO VINEYARD, FIDDLETOWN, $16-$18 Fleshy, full bodied, and intensely flavored; a full flavored Zin, with plum, berry jam, oak, and cedar aromas/flavors. Excellent. 14.9% alcohol. Organically grown grapes. 1,159 cases. Drink through 2007. California Petite Sirah Review GIRARD, 2002 PETITE SYRAH, NAPA VALLEY, $26-$28 Powerful, near-blockbuster Petite, with deep color, intense fruitiness (blackberry, plum), and medium oak character (vanilla, toast, tobacco). Long finish. 7% Zinfandel, 3% Carignane. 1,559 cases. Drink through 2012.